Lancaster County, PA; and Washington DC

Of course, as usual, the excuse is Internet access, but in Washington, DC? I can't explain it, but the WiFi just didn't seem to get along with our laptop setup, so, here we are, no longer in DC, but back on the Web--please enjoy!

September 25, 2007 -- We met a very nice family with eight children (home schooled, of course) which hailed from upstate New York, near Buffalo. The kids got acquainted first, and then the parents—it turned out that we had quite a bit in common. It is one of the perks of traveling and staying in RV parks—you get to meet a lot of nice people (despite the few knuckleheads that seem to slip between the cracks, like we have written about earlier...).
We traveled to the Gettysburg National Battlefield Park and Cemetery. The Ranger-led tour described in graphic detail (almost too much detail) the occurrences during the battle, and the carnage that remained in its aftermath. The battlefield, in the heat and humidity of July 1863, with thousands of dead Union and Confederate soldiers lying about, as well as numerous dead animals; followed by hasty and shallow burials of the soldiers who could be found. This was followed by two weeks of rain. This leaves only to your worst imagination what this battlefield Hell must have been like. In the following months, the area was designated as a National Cemetery, and the work began to disinter the soldiers, who were reburied in proper and organized graves; the entire process took about six months. In November of 1863, the cemetery was dedicated.
Interestingly, President Abraham Lincoln was not the keynote speaker; it was the governor of Pennsylvania who delivered a two hour dissertation. Lincoln, who afterwards delivered his timeless Gettysburg Address, used less than four minutes to deliver his dedication remarks.

We toured the battlefield, and witnessed the numerous monuments that are dedicated to the numerous military units from many Union states that fought at Gettysburg. On the way back to the campsite, we found a Girl Scouts Council office in York, PA, where Malia found several GSA awards unique to the area for Hannah and Kiki to earn, and “compared notes” with the staff personnel. While traveling to and from Gettysburg, we passed the Harley-Davidson Motorcycles plant. A lack of time, and, lest I speak blasphemy, or at least un-American and/or treasonous words; a lack of interest, kept us from visiting the plant (which is open for tours).

September 26, 2007 -- We traveled up to the Reading, PA to see the Daniel Boone Homestead. The property is where Daniel Boone was born and raised until age 15, after which he made his way from here into the history books. The actual home where he was born was no longer there, and the homestead itself was not what we had hoped for, or what the website hyped it as… We returned to the Lancaster area and bounced around the community a bit, taking in the scenery.

September 27, 2007 -- We traveled south for about an hour to the Herr’s Potato Chip factory. An interesting story, of how a young man started a hand-peeled-and-cut potato chip business, and turned it into a major snack food manufacturer over several decades; a shining testimony as to what determination and perseverance can accomplish. For you potato chip aficionados, trust me when I tell you that a potato chip tastes no better than when it is coming hot off the manufacturers line—yum!

We again returned to the Lancaster area and took in the local sights and businesses. Lots and lots of Amish-made stuff, and some, not so sure if some of it may have been Chi-mish…

During the evening, we went to a local hotel that also owns the campground we stayed in, and enjoyed an informational presentation by Mrs. Smucker (of the jams and jellies family), an Amish woman, about the Amish society, and the differences and similarities in the Old Order and New Order Amish and Mennonite communities. This followed with an open FAQ session with her. We came away sorta understanding, sorta not… While the Amish appear to be strongly committed to their beliefs and culture, we could not help but see a few contradictions, especially when it came to “gray areas” and non-distinct lines between the Amish and the “English” cultures and practices. The Old Order Amish appear to be the “hard-liners” in their beliefs; the New Order Amish are a bit more liberal in their interpretations of “The Rules” which are set by the Bishops of the sects. Electricity from the grid is a no-no, but juice from a generator is okay, as long as it drives an air compressor to drive the end-product tool or device. A guy crashes into Brother Yoder’s buggy, kills his kids, gravely injures him and his wife, then does a hit-and-run; a nut case guns down a school room full of kids (remember the recent Nickel Mines incident?), and the community comes forth with a huge outpouring of forgiveness. But, if one of them leaves the Order to be “in the world” on a permanent basis, that person is excommunicated and shunned, and basically written off, in some cases, even by the family of the “traitor”—go figure… Mrs. Smucker also gave rise to a few giggles when she pulled out her contraband cell-phone…

September 28, 2007 -- We drove up to Hershey, PA to see the world-famous chocolate making factory, and the model industrial community created by industrialist and philanthropist Milton Hershey near the turn of the 20th Century. We first stopped in at the visitor’s center, which gave a “simulated tour” as if something out of Disney’s “Small World.” We found out that they don’t give actual factory tours anymore, they only do the kiddie ride thing. The tour obligingly dumps you out, the unsmiling chocolate mistress grudgingly hands you a chintzy sample of Hershey’s version of M&Ms, and then funnels you in front of their photo purchase desk to tempt you to buy a high-priced photo of yourself on the ride (we didn’t). The exit hall then dumps you in the gift shop, where they will allow you to spend all the money you care to on any version of Hershey chocolate in the inventory, as well as all the other tourist bait. If you are sensing a certain bit of disappointment with it all, you sense correctly… No ten minute flick on the life and accomplishments of Mr. Hershey, no samples to grease the money-drop, and again the Disney-like atmosphere of maximum profit-taking. We finally said enough already and actually drove through the original town built by Hershey, and up where the factory was actually at—the employee parking lot was thick with the smell—oh, boy, you guessed it! Chocolate! Yes indeed, why didn’t we have lunch there, instead of up at the Hershey gardens? Oh well…

We drove back to Lancaster, and trekked about from shop to shop until we were able to find a fabric panel that we had been scouring the area trying to find. It depicts several scenes from Amish life, and creates a lovely mini-quilt when done. It is apparently out of production, and in huge demand. We found it at the shop of a very kindly Amish woman, who we had met briefly on our first day bus tour of the area. We had talked not just quilting with her, but about family, life, twins, and the like on the first visit; she remembered us from the visit and was kind enough to sell us a panel of the rare fabric, which she didn’t usually part with to just anyone who asked—we consider it a blessing…

September 29, 2007 -- Once again, time to hit the road. Camping under the trees has a mixed review—the shade is nice, but when the top came down on the trailer, it looked like the bottom of a bird cage… We got the bird exhaust cleaned off, and road tripped to College Park, Maryland. We have to hand it to the Maryland road folks—they really know how to make well engineered, well paved, well signed roads and highways, unlike some of their New England neighbors…
We established Headquarters for the next week-and-something at Cherry Hill Park, the closest RV park that we could find to DC. Have you ever heard of the term “earworm?” Through the power of suggestion, the name of the Park where we are staying has permanently stuck the song “Cherry Hill Park” (remember the song in 1970s by the artist Billy Joe Royal?) in my head—aagggghhhh!

September 30—October 7, 2007 -- Rather than give you a day-by-day, play-by-play of the Washington DC visit, I’ll recap some of the highlights of one very busy week:

International Spy Museum – The history of cloak-and-dagger from Biblical times to present, and the way it will be done in the future. It covered topics from “the real thing” to film spies we’ve known and loved, from James Bond, Agent 007 to Maxwell Smart, Agent 86, and all their way-cool spy gadgetry.
Smithsonian Portrait Museum -- Unbelievable displays of original historic portraits, of names that would be familiar to most. You can literally walk up and touch them, (if you were so uncouth to do so…) as only two are covered with glass.
The National Aquarium – this one needs help, and we even had to pay to get in—they need to take some examples from some of their contemporaries in this pursuit.
The Old Post Office Tower -- A beautiful old building, done in Richardsonian Romanesque architecture, which was obsolete before it was finished near the turn of the 20th. Century, and considered an eyesore (“the Old Tooth” it was called) before future-thinking preservationists saved it from the wrecking ball. It houses a bell tower with a carillon of the ten Congressional Bells that are hand-rung on special occasions.
National Air & Space Museum – what a candy shop for the aviation buff! Numerous original air and space craft are housed there, including the Wright Flyer and the Mercury, Gemini, and Apollo spacecraft, just to scratch the surface.
National Zoo -- nice display of animals, which were displayed in natural settings, but placed where they couldn’t just run off and hide, like the St. Louis Zoo. The meerkats were a hoot!
White House – a self-guided (but well supervised tour by the Secret Service) of the east wing of the White House. Nice tour; we all know that it all “happens” down at the West Wing, which you need a top secret clearance from God to get into…
US Capitol – now this was a great tour. Guided by a staff member of Congressman Michael Thompson, it was beautiful inside, and the tour guide really knew his stuff. It was awe inspiring to know that we were walking on the same floors as many historic figures that helped create our nation. We even sat in for a short time on a session of Congress, while a bill was on the House Floor. Interesting, to be sure, but high level politics, as one politician whose name I have forgotten, likens it to “herding cats.”
The Library of Congress -- without a doubt, this single most beautiful place in DC. This place was put together by artists and sculptors that knew and loved their craft, and was designed to be a showplace rivaled only by the likes of the Vatican.
Holocaust Museum – what can you say about a place like this? This was a very sobering experience, and we were thankfully hurried along by time constraints. It was a good introduction to a topic that is better assessed by more mature minds than the kids possess, but it gave rise to some good discussion afterwards that helped the kids better understand this difficult, yet important to know, topic of human of human behavior and suffering.
Bureau of Engraving – if you ever want to see more money than you will ever again see in your entire life, go here. You know what that smell of fresh money smells like? The entire place reeks of it here. What an interesting place, and the numbers and logistics will boggle the mind.
The US Supreme Court – pretty impressive place, but that the Justices are only in session three days a week, and between October and April… We didn’t get to see them, but the public is welcome to sit in on any cases being argued while the court is in session.
WWII Memorial
US Navy Memorial Plaza
Washington Memorial
Jefferson Memorial
FDR Memorial
Lincoln Memorial
Korean War Memorial
Vietnam War Memorial – all the memorials listed are on or near the Washington Mall. They are, as the term memorial suggests, tributes to the person or persons who served our country in a very noteworthy and commendable fashion, and placed so that none may forget their sacrifices in making America the greatest nation on earth.
The National Archives – the most impressive display of pack-ratting in existence. If it is a record that has to do with our country or our people, it can probably be found here. (Also, the next edition of “National Treasure” is being filmed here—ooh, ooh! Can’t wait!!).
Arlington National Cemetery – of course, many historic military and political figures planted here, but of course, the main event is the changing of the guard ceremony at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Man, those guys are strack! There is some “urban legend” regarding the Tomb Guards, so it’s a very interesting read to Google up some stuff about them to set the record straight.

These are the key locations that we went to, in addition to numerous lesser venues. A few observations—DC has more cops, both public and private, than any other place we have ever seen; you can’t swing a cat by the tail without hitting one. Nearly every building you enter begins with an airport-like security check. The Metro subway system is the way to travel in DC—it will take you nearly anywhere in greater DC, if you don’t mind a reasonable walk to your end destination. The people are helpful and friendly, and the downtown is clean, and feels very safe and secure. There is more columns, Greek-Roman-Corinthian architecture than you can stand, and everything has some kind of symbolic meaning. We were blessed with good weather, and truly enjoyed this key destination in our trip—we’ll be back!

October 9, 2007 -- In the heart of an unseasonable heat wave, we packed up and road-tripped down to Williamsburg, VA--more to come!

On To New York and Pennsylvania

September 20, 2007 -- We packed up and road-tripped to the east New Jersey / New York City area. While en route, we passed through coastal Connecticut, truly a beautiful place. We stopped in New London, where we visited the US Navy Submarine Training base, and went to the Submariner’s Museum. The museum contained the history of submarines in the US, as well as a number of submarine compartment mock-ups, using parts and control systems of actual submarines—buttons and switches and gadgets, oh my! The visit finished up with a tour of the USS Nautilus, the first nuclear submarine in the US Fleet, now retired. We then paid a visit to the US Coast Guard Academy (perhaps with the idea of “planting a few seeds” within our children) to “look about” for a bit. Perhaps with the specter of college tuitions going through the roof, a recall of the scenic campus on the Connecticut coast area, with a full-ride scholarship courtesy of the US Government, with a guaranteed job on the graduation end may start to “looking good” when comes the time to consider a college choice…

We got into Jersey City in the early evening, and attempted to follow some fuzzy directions to a campsite in a marina on the Hudson River, just up from the Statue of Liberty. After several attempts, we finally located the hoped for location, only to find that it was booked solid for the night, despite several empty spaces. After a get-lost session in the ‘hood of upper Jersey City, which quickened the pulse a just a bit, we finally found our way back to the Jersey Turnpike and headed west, to find the KOA near Stroudsburg, PA, nearly two hours away, finally rolling in at about 1:00 AM.

September 21, 2007 -- The day bloomed bright, and we went to check in at the office. After some hard-line negotiations to get a reasonable price on the campsite, which required a move from our original site, we enjoyed a relaxing day in camp. What we found out later was that there was a rodeo in town for the weekend (we thought that was an “out west” thing…). Well, early in the evening, several carloads of city-slicker 20-something female “cowboy groupies” rolled in, and where else did they set up camp? Of course, right across from us… the Coors Light flowed freely, as did the loud talking, laughter, and “Cowboy Karaoke” until as late as 4:30 AM, despite several warnings by KOA personnel to put a lid on it…Grrrrr. Oh, did I mention this kept up for TWO nights? Double grrrrr!!! As I have found out so many times in my law enforcement career, there is no point in trying to reason with alcohol-soaked people, so we just had to tough it out…

September 22. 2007 -- We drove down to New York Harbor and boarded a ferry for Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty. Ellis Island, once a beehive of immigrant processing activity in the late 1800’s until the mid 1900’s, stood silent for many years as it slowly decayed. In the later 1900’s, Ellis Island was adopted by the US Park Service and meticulously restored. On our visit day, it appeared to be as much a cultural and ethnic melting pot as it was in its heyday—there were so many different races, cultures, ethnicities, manner of dress, and languages represented there, it was almost like seeing the facility as it once might have been, albeit modern amenities. I could go on and on about this one, but, better to read about it on your own, or let’s chat later…

We then moved on to see the Statue of Liberty—now there’s an impressive lady! Regrettably, we could not go up inside the statue as you used to be able to prior to 9-11, but, it was still a magnificent sight to behold from the outside. We tagged onto a Ranger-led tour, and it’s always great to find someone who is passionate on his topic, and this Ranger certainly was! It’s easy to imagine how the sight of this statue, while entering the NY Harbor after leaving “the old country” for a new life in a new land could stir a person’s soul, and bring tears to their eyes…

September 23, 2007 -- Road trip through the Pocono Mountains, to the rolling farmlands of Lancaster County, Pennsylvania, made famous by its large Amish population. The colors are starting to change for the fall, and we look forward to the Autumn in all her glory... We found a really nice RV park just east of Lancaster city, and tucked in for a few days. On the agenda while based here is Gettysburg, Philadelphia, Hershey, and the local sights.

September 24, 2007 -- We took a bus tour through the local Amish countryside. The Amish are everywhere here, and blend well, albeit conspicuously, with all the modernism of the heavily tourist-oriented town, which is really about them. Just when you thought the term “wireless” had something to do with lap-top computers and the Internet, take a look at an Amish farmstead; yea, many of them clumped together—now, that brings a whole new perspective on the word wireless—no juice to any of these farms, which are lit by gas lights, heated by wood, propane, or kerosene, and propelled by horse power, compressed air, or diesel. We watched while passing several farms as the Amish did hand labor and horse-powered harvesting in their fields; and saw several Amish schoolyards brimming with like-clad children having fun during lunch before returning to one-room school buildings to get their education, which typically stops at the eighth grade; and saw each Amish domicile flying a lengthy lanyard of drying laundry in the sunshine, as Monday is wash-day. We stopped at a quilt shop, and watched the Amish lady quickly and expertly doing impeccable hand stitching on a beautiful quilt under construction, and marveled at her collection of stunning quilts for sale, for prices that don’t seem unreasonable, relative to what some stores would sell them for (she said that retailers take a significant mark-up on Amish quilts). A couple more stops at a farm and a local craftsman that does woodwork were equally impressive; and fresh-made ice cream really is better than the stuff you buy at the store!

Bwoston--Ain't It A Wicked Pissah?!

September 14, 2007 -- This morning began in a grump, and not by choice. At about 9:30 PM the night prior, a band of Gypsys in the form of a women’s’ softball team loudly rolled in, along with their male companions, and set up camp almost directly across from us. Hoping for the best (they might go to bed to rest up for their game the next day) and expecting the worst (they would party until the cows came home), the latter won out. They were loud, obnoxious, profane, rude, drunken, and disrespectful (did I miss any applicable adjectives?) as they partied and played horseshoes, until the last ones finally crashed at nearly 2:00 AM. Dag went over to the group at about 12:30 and politely asked that they call it a night; “Oh, yeah, man, sorry—we’re going to bed right now. We have to be up really early for a game tomorrow, eh?” Yeah, right—not likely, and most of the hung-over campsite was still baggin’ Z’s at 8:00 AM the next morning… Dag went down to the office, explained why we were not “happy campers” and politely, yet firmly, demanded a refund for the night’s stay, and same was given without protest. We think we would rather have paid for a good night’s sleep, rather than salt away a few bucks for the misery of that night, especially ahead of our 290-something mile drive to Cooperstown, NY… It was an all-day affair, while taking a secondary highway through scenic Upstate New York, and trying to cheap out on paying for the toll road Interstate. Toll roads—hope they don’t become popular in California…

We stopped in Victor, NY for a few hours and took in the Iroquois Nations Confederation First Peoples exhibit, known as Ganondagon. This was a very informative program, put on by the members of the Seneca tribe. A walking trail with points-of-interest stations told the history of the early civilization of the Iroquois Nations, and their conflicts with the French and later settlers. It culminated in a visit to a reproduction “Long House” that was typical of the early Iroquois First Peoples. It was filled with actual and repro artifacts, and a program was given by two very knowledgeable tribal interpreters. After listening to the presentation, we were impressed with how culturally advanced the Iroquois tribes actually were, and it left us to wonder how the European settlers presumed to claim the cultural and moral high ground against the “savages.” From an advanced technology standpoint, perhaps, but little more…

While one of the main purposes of this trip was to be a rolling classroom for the kids, Malia and I have come to gain a significant amount of new knowledge about Native Americans while crossing the country. It is amazing how little we were taught about the Native Americans while in school, and how much that we did learn back then was slanted toward the “paleface” view. Hollywood did us no favors in shaping perspectives and attitudes toward Indian peoples while growing up…

Up and rolling again, we found our campsite south of Cooperstown in the dark, and were awakened to the sound of rain shortly after sacking out.

September 15, 2007 -- The rain kept up all night, and we awoke to a blustery day, that was interspersed with rain showers. We journeyed into Cooperstown, the home of the Baseball Hall of Fame. What a classy place! Even if you are not a baseball fan, you might find the place interesting. It was a trip down memory lane, recalling all the names of the Major League players that were household words while growing up, but have faded from memory as the new wave of overpaid, steroid-pumped prima donnas make an expensive Sport of Kings from what used to be the common man’s sport (whoops, sorry, let me climb down off my soapbox before I fall off and hurt myself…). Dag, ever on the lookout for a bargain, traded a double-dip blood donation for a ticket to the BHoF—such a deal! (They were having a very good response to the blood drive that was going on at the time). This place, like many others we have seen, is a must-see if you find yourself in NY. Cooperstown itself is very scenic, and hosts some very well-preserved historic homes. We drove around a bit and enjoyed the scenery; on a whim, we stopped at an ancient cemetery, where we read grave markers dating back to 1794! The small-town charm and the well kept old properties were delightful, and the Lake Otsego, next to which Cooperstown sits, just begs to be sailed and fished… I told Malia that if I had to live in NY, Cooperstown would make the short list!

The nightcap on this day’s adventure was trip down the road to Oneonta, NY, which is the home of Brooks’ House of Barbecue, a place that came onto the radar from the Rachel Ray Food Network show. Ooooh, my… if you like your ‘cue, this place is to die for! Between barbecued chicken and racks of pork ribs, and all the other stuff that comes with it, we could barely leave under our own power. A destination worth the investment, to be sure!

September 16, 2007 -- A long road trip day to the Boston area. We ended up stuck in Boston commute traffic—I’m not sure I have a negative word in my vocabulary that is negative enough to describe this un-delightful experience. As veterans of Los Angeles commuting, we are experienced in heavy traffic, but not like this… I am sure that there will be a special place in Hell for the design team that created the Interstate 93 outbound commute corridor from Boston—no, not any hotter; they will just have to drive in their creation, all day, every day, in an endless loop for eternity… a just punishment for those who created so much misery… just picture eight lanes being bottlenecked down to two lanes as it goes into the Ted Williams Tunnel, being driven by a sea of tired, grumpy, and poor-driving-skill motorists on cell phones, then being forced to pay $4.50 for this torment before going into the tunnel—stress level needle off the end of the meter…

September 17, 2007 -- We made the inbound commuter train to Boston, literally by seconds, after some really bad directions on how to get to the station. We got aboard, and the kindly conductor helped us figure out the “T” system of trains and subways to get to our destination. We got off the subway at the Boston Commons (central park) and started our walk up the “Freedom Trail” which showcases a number of sites that were the tinderbox upon which the first sparks of the American Revolution were struck, which of course resulted in a free and independent America which we today enjoy after the courageous Colonists’ hard-fought victory over Great Britain. Boston is an interesting place, with suited professionals briskly walking among the casual tourists, street vendors and the homeless; tall buildings commingling among buildings that were built nearly 300 years ago, and brutal traffic, not for the faint-of-heart. Ever heard of Dunkin’ Doughnuts? A chain doughnut-and-coffee establishment, it is a cultural icon throughout Massachusetts, as plentiful as Starbucks on the left coast. If DD went belly-up (not likely here), I think the MA economy would fold right behind it…

September 18, 2007 -- Day trip up to the scenic Kittery, Maine, and then down through New Hampshire, and ending in Salem, Massachusetts, before returning to camp. Kittery is the east coast factory outlet destination, with a number of them competing for your $$. Kittery is home to The Trading Post, a sporting goods store that blows Cabela’s and Bass Pro Shop right off the pond! Right next door, for your splurging pleasure, is Bob’s Clam House, with mouth-watering clam and lobster rolls—oh, yeah, baby…

We drove back through the back roads of New Hampshire, and found Exeter, NH, a quaint little town with the namesake of our old stomping grounds.

The final stop was in Salem, MA., ground zero of the New England witch hunt that remains an indelible stain on our history from the late 1600s. This tragic story unfolds as the folly of several young girls who feign being under the spell of witches, and point fingers at numerous women (and men) in the community. The superstition, ignorance, and self-righteous religious zeal of misguided judges in this Puritan community resulted in 20 innocents being executed, as well as many more incarcerated, for the allegation of practicing witchcraft. The story “The Crucible” is among many that detail the tragedy. We went to the Salem Witch Museum, which details the story, and separates fact from fiction. A final stop at the Salem Maritime Heritage Park capped the day before driving back to the campground.

September 19, 2007 -- A relaxed day, as we caught up the home-schooling, the banking, and car maintenance. Dag took the car in for an oil change, and engaged a conversation with a Massachusetts lass with as thick an accent as he could understand, and learned the definition of a "wicked pissah." It's not what one might think, and several things do come to mind; rather, it is an exclaimation that declares the extreme excellence of the item, person, or entity that the expression is aimed at--I might suggest, however, that you not aim this adjective at your significant other, regardless of how wonderful you think they might be... In the afternoon, we drove into Plymouth, the site where the Pilgrims came ashore from the Mayflower. We went aboard the “Mayflower II”, an exact replica of the famous vessel. Several period character-actors gave us the story of life aboard the Mayflower—no Carnival Cruise on this boat! It is hard to imagine life in those times, especially in the tight belly of a cold, wet, dark wooden vessel, in close quarters with their farm animals, for 66 days, while en route to a non-settled destination, in the teeth of the winter—hoowee! We then saw “THE Rock” (not the actor) upon which is supposed to have been the first steps of the Pilgrims in the New World. We were perhaps expecting something perhaps a bit bigger?...

Back Again, Finally...

Apologies again, loyal fans—Internet availability is very difficult to find, and is often marginal when we do—we’ll try harder to keep up on the ‘blog when we can find a good Internet connection… We have decided to stand by on the photos for now, with technical difficulties being encountered--we'll figure out something later.

August 25, 2007 -- With both boys both feeling a little under the weather with a short-term (thankfully!) tummy-bug, we went to see the four granite faces of Mt. Rushmore. In our modern age of laser precision, GPS location, Internet information, and automated everything, we never cease to marvel at the engineering feats of our predecessors that were accomplished by slide-rule math (kids reading this, ask your parents, or grandparents…), string lines and plumb-bobs, and crude-by-modern-standards power tools, and an artistic eye. The Presidents’ faces carved into granite, the hardest variety known, was accomplished by not by hammer and chisel, but rather, by drilling holes into the solid granite by air-driven jackhammers and drills, precisely measured and placed placed dynamite charges, and air-driven finishing tools. Over 10,000 cases of dynamite were used. Workmen, hanging by 3/8” cables in a boatswain’s chair over a 500’ drop, lowered by hand-powered winches, accomplished the gargantuan task over a period of 14 years. The task was not as complete as the artist Borglum would have liked; his project was stopped and finished as well as could be done by the onset of WWII, and the budgetary limitations of a growing US war effort. In the project, no fatalities were suffered, and few injuries were sustained. The grandeur of this project, like so many things we have seen, cannot be done justice by photographs…

We then headed east for an easy road day, as we watched mile after mile display sign after sign of the Wall Drug company. If you have never been to Wall Drug, go at least once just to say you have been there. It covers literally two blocks, and is the largest emporium of self-promoting stuff, gadgets, widgets, toys, tourist bait, foods, and stuff to interest just about anyone that we have ever seen under one roof. We camped just down the road, and got off to an early start the next day.


August 26, 2007 -- We crossed the mighty Missouri River and into Chamberlain SD, the home of the Lakota Sioux Museum and Cultural Center. LSMCC was well worth the visit, and further reinforced our learning about the Plains Indians way of life. The displays were interesting, vivid and very well done, a must-see for any Plains traveler. We went back across the river and camped in Oacama, SD.



August 27, 2007 -- We rolled into DeSmet, SD, and onto the childhood homestead of Laura Ingalls Wilder, of “Little House on the Prairie” fame. Laura was a prolific writer in the later part of her life as she penned the Little House series. The television series was a blend of several of the places that Laura lived as the child of Charles and Laura Ingalls, and was a bit more upscale than the actual digs that they lived in during the first years of the homestead claim established by her father. A small, dank dugout in the side of a hill, covered with sod and lit by a single window was home-sweet-home in the beginning, followed by a small shanty, and then the farmhouse, which was still very close quarters by today’s standards. The summers were hot, humid, and mosquito-infested; the winters were brutal and sparse. Those were some really tough and dedicated people back then…

We got the grand tour of the homestead and outbuildings (no, not the outhouse…). The kids got to drive buggies and horse teams, make rope, shell corn, ground flour, twisted hay (used as fuel on the tree-less prairie), and made corn-cob dolls (Kristian made a corn-cob pipe). The old school house, complete with elderly school marm, was a real treat and a look back to how it was in the days of the one-room school house. The kids of the old days just fine without electronic entertainment and cell phones, and I’d hazard a guess that modern day kids would buckle under the hard work and times experienced by their predecessors.

We stayed the night at the homestead, and enjoyed the night sounds of the prairie, instead of trains, planes, and automobiles that we have become accustomed to at less-rural RV facilities. The thunderstorms approaching in the distance left us with beautiful electric fireworks and a booming fanfare, and rained upon by morning.


August 28, 2007 -- Road trip from DeSmet, traveling across the bottom of South Dakota, staying one step ahead, then one step behind a cold front moving across the Midwest, bringing with it a moving carwash. We played tag with the thunderstorms the whole day, and found ourselves in north central Iowa. Iowa is the kind of place that Terry Redlin paintings are inspired from, with scenic farms and countryside, the kind of places that conjure up fantasies of crisp autumn evenings by a fire after a day’s sporting afield, while good stuff is cookin’ in the kitchen…

We made our way to the home of David and Nikki Smith and their boys Trevor and Caleb, in Alden, Iowa. They live on a farmstead as described above, a three-story (four, if you include the basement) American Foursqare-styled home, guessing a vintage circa turn of the 20th. century. They were so kind to let us park and unfurl the soggy tent trailer inside one of several huge barns on the property to dry out while it stormed outside... Nikki is a friend of Malia’s from UC Davis in the early 1980’s; Dave, her husband, is a commercial pilot and Certified Flight Instructor. Malia and I met Dave and the boys for the first time; I met Nikki for the first time. Malia and Nikki took up where they left off, and I became acquainted with Dave, and we talked flying until late in the night.

August 29, 2007 -- Another full day enjoying the splendid hospitality of the Smiths! The girls went shopping, the boys went fishing, and Dave and I went out to the airport where Dave works to get the grand tour. The eve was spent enjoying barbecued chicken, and a game of hide-and-seek in the labyrinth of the darkened Smith home! The adults played also; Dave and Nikki, with the home-court advantage, got caught first. Trevor won, slipping into a small spot that no one could believe that he could fit into…

August 30, 2007 -- Our longest road day yet, but an easy one, because we were not negotiating an endless line of hills and curves. We regretfully said goodbye to the wonderful hospitality of our good friends Dave and Nikki Smith and their endearing lads, and pressed on southbound towards St. Louis. The roads tend to be very straight in Iowa, with the gentle rolling landscape dotted with stands of trees surrounding scenic farmsteads, and never-ending miles of corn, destined for the gas tanks of America in the form of ethanol. We whiled away the hours while listening to Mark Twain’s “Adventures of Huckleberry Finn” on CD. A delightful novel, if not just a little politically incorrect for modern decorum, but, a wonderful trip to the “theater of the mind” nonetheless. We stopped briefly in Hannibal, Missouri, a riverfront town on the west bank of the Mississippi River, known of Mark Twain fame. It seemed a bit run-down and depressed, and we were less than impressed with it. We decided to press on to St. Louis, instead of staying there as originally planned. A late arrival in a mosquito-infested RV park on the East bank of the Mississippi River (Illinois) and a good night’s sleep after swatting many of the little blood-sucking beasties inside the trailer.



August 31, 2007 -- Our first full day in St. Louis. The first half of the day spent on home-school catch-up (we try to stay caught up, but sometimes it can be a trick while on the road…). We then ventured forth to the St. Louis Arch National Park (yes, four more Junior Ranger patches on the scoreboard). We hung around for a Ranger-led tour, and seemed to be the only takers in the Westward Expansion museum. Our Ranger gave us a real “insider” presentation, and somehow guessed that we were home-schoolers. I pressed him to explain how he knew; he just said “ESP, I guess. After a while, you get to know your clientele.” We took it as a compliment… The Arch is an engineering masterpiece, designed by a Finnish architect. We politely declined a very expensive tram ride to the top, in favor of something giving a bit more bank for the buck… Again, like so many other things we have seen on this trip, photos do it no justice—you just have to see the thing in real life.

After the Arch, we boarded the local Metro system train, and went to the Union Station, which served as a rail transportation hub during the heyday of rail travel. It has since been converted to a very unique mall and sorta kinda museum. It seems that every other store there is a St. Louis Cardinals promotional shop of some flavor. The highlight of this visit was the stop at the Fudgery, where the “MC” of the shop made fudge in front of a growing crowd, while conducting his very entertaining and in-your-face audience participation stand-up comedy routine.

And now, for all you baseball fans—the closing act of this day was a trip to Busch Stadium, where we jumped off the Metro just to “look around a bit.” On impulse and a good opportunity, we bought some well-below-gate-price tickets from a desperate scalper to see the ten-time World Series winners St. Louis Cardinals play the Cincinnati Reds. Boy, talk about a town that loves their baseball team! The stadium was a full house, in a sea of red and white. We watched a Cardinal home run at the bottom of the second inning; a tragic and severe line-drive injury to on-deck batter Juan Encarnacion, and then, in the sixth inning, were privileged to see a Grand Slam by Cardinal outfielder Rick Ankiel! This brought the Cardinals from behind from 4-3 to 7-3, a healthy lead, and the Cards fans went wild! With tired and bored kids, we left at the seventh inning stretch, confident that the game was pretty much a “done deal.” (Newspaper said the next day the final score was 8-5, Cardinals sealing the victory).

September 1, 2007 -- Our next day in St. Louis, we went to a very interesting tour, that of the Anheuser-Busch Brewery. Getting past all the jokes and guffaws that likely follow, this place is amazing! The entire complex is set on scenic, historic, and immaculately-kept grounds; the inside of each building, regardless of its use, is surgical sanitary. No expense has been spared to make this place a corporate and industrial showplace. The production numbers and logistics to produce the “King of Beers” and all the other labels produced here, are mind-boggling. These guys put out enough beer in a day, every day, to float a battleship, almost literally. A team of the famous and carefully selected Clydesdale draft horses is kept at the grounds; the remainders are kept at a local breeding ranch on the outskirts of St. Louis. The young tour guides really “knew their stuff” and were able to answer any question, no matter how obscure. If you find yourself in St. Louis for any reason, this place is another do-not-miss.

September 2, 2007 -- Goodbye, St. Louis, and on to Springfield, Illinois. We rolled into town in the afternoon, and visited the Abraham Lincoln Home and National Park (you guessed it, another Junior Ranger on the tally). The home is situated in a beautiful and historic neighborhood, and has been immaculately restored and maintained. The home is furnished with some original, and many period-reproduction pieces. The Ranger guide is another who “knew his stuff” and was enthusiastic, yea, passionate about his love for the old home and its historic significance.

September 3, 2007 -- The Lincoln Museum and Library complex is a treasure trove of information and lore about our 16th President, the Civil War, and the way of life in that era. It was not a stuffy and academic chamber of stuff—the layout and presentation of artifacts was well done, in a chronological lifespan layout, and addressed Lincoln’s successes, defeats, joys and sorrows, the political climate of the time, and an entire section was dedicated to Lincoln’s colorful and controversial wife, Mary Todd Lincoln.

We returned to the campground, and after a, shall we say, difference of opinion, with the RV park manager, we pulled up stakes in the early evening and drove into the late night, to the east side of Indianapolis, and took a hotel room. An unfortunate end to an otherwise great day. Some people just refuse to listen to reason when their mind is made up; don’t try to confuse them with the facts…

September 4, 2007 -- We rolled into Cincinnati, and spent a great afternoon with Dag’s relatives, Dick & Tina Goranson (Aunt & Uncle), and their daughter (cousin) Loretta, her husband David, and their three daughters. Malia and Loretta talked home-schooling, scrap-booking and mom stuff; Dag and David became acquainted in their first introductions to each other. It’s always fun to catch up on “family stuff” and enjoy these types of informal gatherings. We camped in a county park not far from Loretta’s that was thick with towering pines and a small lake.

September 5, 2007 -- We took in the Underground Railroad Freedom Museum. This place is an in-depth look at the history of slavery in the US, as well as the oppression of people and societies around the world to present day. Educational, very well done, but sobering…

September 6, 2007 -- Before leaving the Cincinnati area, we went to a place called The Creation Museum. This place is a head-on collision with the Theory of Evolution and the followers of Darwin’s principles. Very interesting, very compelling in its position on this divisive issue, and I will only say that if you find yourself in northern Kentucky (just south of Cincinnati) and want to shake your foundation a little (or a lot, depending on your impression of the place), take a day and check this place out (or visit the website www.answersingenesis.org) before jumping to any conclusions…

We then drove across Ohio, and at about 9:30 PM, found our way to the little wide spot in the road called Lucas, Ohio (a few miles east of Mansfield). We were welcomed by Dag’s cousin Cathy Baker, and her husband Frank, and their kids Molly, Austin, and Chase. The home we stayed at for the next five nights is a farmhouse, built in 1879, and is situate on about seven manicured acres. Cathy and Frank have created the consummate “country” home from this wonderful old property.

September 7-11, 2007 -- We spent a very relaxing time with the Bakers; Dag, “catching up” and reminiscing with Cathy, and both of us getting to know Frank and the kids, as well as Frank’s delightful parents “PawPaw” and “MawMaw.” We toured the local area, and were quite taken by the sights and homes, many of which could easily be found jumping from the pages of “Country” magazine. This is a place that is easy to like, and could easily be described as a well-kept secret by the people who live there. Cathy is a culinary master in her kitchen, and is directly responsible for some pounds that we did not have when we got there…


On Saturday, we went to a middle-school football game to watch Austin and Chase, members of the Lucas Cubs football team, play against a rival mid-school that was way out on the edge of the farmlands somewhere. The game was delayed for nearly an hours as a thunderstorm flashed, boomed, and drenched its way across the area. The game was a Cubs victory, with both boys getting some game-winning action! As we prepared to leave, we found that a hinge to the Suburban tail-gate window had become detached (good timing…not.), and created an obstacle course of hoops to jump through with the car dealer, the warranty company, and several glass dealers.

After getting the window fire put out, we regretfully left the marvelous hospitality and fellowship we enjoyed with the Bakers and pushed on down the road. We rolled into the Amish country east of where we were staying, and enjoyed the sights of Kidron, Ohio, which is home to the coolest hardware store in existence, Lehman’s Non-Electric Hardware (they do have electrical stuff there for the non-Amish, but the Amish were their main market when they opened for business years ago). We saw a number of Amish people, as well as their horse-drawn carriages, and barefooted children—very cool! It’s hard to believe that people can live with the self-imposed disciplines that the Amish live with, especially in the 21st century, but, we admire their courage and commitment to live by their principles and beliefs.

September 12, 2007 -- We drove from Erie, PA to Buffalo, NY, and then across into Ontario, Canada. We set up at the KOA, and had a relaxed evening and swam. We anxiously awaited the next day, to when we could see Niagara Falls!

September 13, 2007 -- We got to see the amazing sight of Niagara Falls—unbelievable! We took the “Maid of the Mist” boat tour, and traveled right up to the edge of the falls, wrapped in a blue slicker that kept us mostly dry in the torrential spray that came over the top of us, but, we sloshed off the boat in soaked shoes—well worth the experience! The city of Niagara falls is glitzy and garish, rather much like a Las Vegas experience, and full of tourist traps. The Canadians are so nice—they’ll let you spend as much money as you like, eh?

Stand-Down Day

August 24, 2007 -- Road-weary after several long road days and a lot of places visited, we decided to take a stand-down day, and just take it easy. Just as well, perhaps, as our Kiki decided to find a tummy-bug somewhere, and spent the day in lighter shades of pale... We bounced around in Rapid City, SD, catching up on shopping and laundry.



For all the stores and gift shops we have been into, we are starting to see a pattern, which I will call "SSDS" which stands for "same stuff, different store." Between "Native American art" (methinks made in the Orient) and Harley-Davidson / Sturgis related items, it becomes kind of predictable.



Oh, yeah, for those of you who are Harley buffs, this place is ground-zero for everything Harley. Sturgis, SD, is the Mecca of Harley-ites, and the big annual pilgrimage occurred a week before we got here (thank God!) but there are still quite a few hang-arounders to make heavy-metal thunder in the area. No helmet law here, so quite a few bare-headed Darwin-types expressing their individuality atop their American-built mounts...

A Tragic Tale of Clashing Cultures

August 23, 2007 -- We visited the Little Bighorn National Memorial site, which commemorates the tragic battle at which Lt. Colonel George A. Custer led his ill-fated 7th. Cavalry troopers to their demise atop a grassy hill in the southern Montana grasslands. The battle, which occurred on June 26, 1876, occurred when US Cavalry units set upon the group of several tribes of Plains Indians camped at the Little Bighorn River near the present-day memorial site. The Indians, numbering in excess of 7000-8000, were camped as a peaceful gathering prior to this incident, and not for war. When attacked, the numerically superior Indian group of 1500-2000 warriors claimed a decisive victory over the US Army troops while fighting to defend their lives, their land rights, and their ancient culture and way of life. It was a real eye-opener as we heard the battle story, told to us by a National Parks Ranger, who is a member of the Crow Indian tribe. The story was poignant, and told the tragic tale of the clash of two cultures, and the battle which would greatly increase the resolve of the US Government to forever change the way of life of the Native Americans throughout the New America. The white markers dotting the hillside of Last Stand Hill were a silent reminder of the blood spilled that day by desperate US troops. However, in recent years, efforts are being made to memorialize the Indian warriors who died during this conflict. Red marker stones, bearing inscriptions of the warrior's name and tribe, are being placed at the known locations where the warriors fell. While at the Little Bighorn site, the kids put another Junior Ranger badge in their collection. The Junior Ranger program helps the kids investigate the background and significance of the different National Park sites more in-depth, and creates a more knowledgeable and lasting impression of the site visited.After we left Little Bighorn, we settled in for a long drive to the Black Hills area of South Dakota. After a tiring trip, we landed in the Mt. Rushmore KOA late-evening.

Sorry, loyal fans about the delay--Wi-Fi along the way has been spotty and unreliable. We managed to find a DSL cable, and we are back in action!

August 18, 2007 - Our first day at Yellowstone National Park. First lesson learned is this—even in August, come prepared for all kinds of weather. It’s rather much like Humboldt in some respects; if you don’t like the weather, be patient, it will change in a few minutes. We have had clear and cloudless moments, which turned to overcast, with ominous towering cumulus (the precursor to electric fireworks and big boomers), which then turned to thunderstorms with hail, and then back again. We traveled into Yellowstone National Park a short distance, and were awestruck by the majesty of the mountains, Lodgepole pine forests, and cascading Madison River. We were also astounded by the damage caused by the massive fire which occurred in YNP in 1988! Dead trees, as far as the eye can see, surrounded by flourishing new growth Lodgepole pines. This, according to the Rangers, is part of a natural cycle which has happened for millennia. The kids started a Junior Ranger program, an educational program which will award them with a spiffy patch and accolades for its completion. We are helping them with the completion (family participation is encouraged) and we are all learning some way-cool stuff about the park, and nature in general.

We spent the latter half of the day bouncing around in the town of West Yellowstone, a touristy town outside the west park gates. It caters to the fly-fishing enthusiasts, as the local fishing is acknowledged as world-class. It has its share of boutiques and unusual shops (tanned buffalo hides, anyone?), and not a bargain to be found. Gas is $3.09, milk $4.39. It’s again, kinda like Humboldt—you’re a long way from major shopping, so they know they gotcha…

We topped off the evening in the hot tub at KOA, while the kids swam in the adjacent indoor pool. It’s fun to meet people from all points of the country here; everyone seems to be envious of our long journey plans, and wish us well.



August 19, 2007 - Today we did the “lower loop” of YNP. We attended a church service in a magnificent cathedral, built literally by the hand of God. An outdoor amphitheater overlooking the Madison Valley was the site of our small service. God parted the skies for good weather during the service; the minister, who is also a seasonal Ranger in the park, pointed at some trace clouds in the distance, and said “here it comes.” He was right, and about 1:00 o’clock, the first t-storms came rolling in…

Before that time, we visited several geothermal sites, where superheated water made its way to the surface, heated by volcanic magma deep below the earth. (YNP, as it is, is situated atop some very active volcanic real estate). Nature’s hot tubs bubble like a cauldron (160° as it comes out at the surface), and bacteria that can withstand these temps color the surrounding geology with a rainbow of colors. It looked like a scene out of “Ice Age—The Meltdown”. The blue of the thermal pools look so inviting, but would boil you like a lobster (oops, I mean Dungeness crab—wrong coast…) if you gave in to the temptation (and the Rangers would scratch you a really expensive ticket if you survived.

YNP is like Animal Planet—today alone we have seen a Bald Eagle, and an Osprey which caught its trout lunch from the river while we watched (that was awesome—the Rangers say that they are typically successful in 1 of 12 attempts!). We also saw chipmunks, numerous bison, elk, deer, and a coyote today. We still are looking for the elusive bear, but hopefully tomorrow…

We finally made to Old Faithful minutes before the sky fell in a hailstorm. We had lunch, and went to the Visitor’s Center, where the kids were made Official Junior Rangers, to the applause of bystanders to the Ranger’s “hear-ye.” At about 2:20 p.m., while waiting for the Big Blow, we were treated to another lightening storm, which included some marble-sized hail. At 2:34pm, within two minutes of the predicted time of 2:36, Old Faithful put on a spectacular show for about four and a half minutes—you can see it all you like on video tracks, but until you see it “live” you just cannot believe how awesome it is!


August 20, 2007 - We rolled out of YNP via the north loop, and left by the north entrance. More wildlife to be seen, and finally saw actual herds (200-300)of bison, although, although a small token of the 30,000,000 that used to roam the American Plains. Again, a geologist’s paradise of colors and textures of the earth’s crust. We went over Dead Indian Pass, which was part of the route used by Chief Joseph and the Nez Perce tribe while seeking escape from the US Army, a tragic tale, left for another time. We took in breathtaking vistas from a place that the Plains Indians revered as the top of the world. Rolled into Cody, Wyoming that evening.

August 21, 2007 - We took in the Buffalo Bill Cody Museum in Cody. We took most of the day there, and among the 5 different galleries of displays, it would take most of a week to truly savor its offerings. Natural history, Native American, Bill Cody, firearms (largest known collection), and western art are its galleries, and we left in big-time information overload. That evening, we visited the Bill Cody dam, an engineering masterpiece created in 1908, and was the prototype of the Hoover dam.

August 22, 2007 - On the road again, after a visits to the National Wild Sheep Conservation Program. On the road, we stopped at the Heart Mountain Relocation Center (WWII Japanese-American internment center), and the Custer County Historic museum. A shop-stop in Billings, MT, and then landing at the Little Bighorn / Custer Battle site. A tour tomorrow of the battlefield, and then on our way.



We are meeting a lot of nice and interesting people along the way--one guy from Visalia, our old digs! RV parks and tourist sites are a "target rich environment" if you like to talk to people. Usually, the foolproof ice-breaker is to offer to exchange group-photo services to those taking each other's pictures at a tourist attraction, but have no one to get the "group shot", or simply saying "howdy neighbor" at the RV sites, followed by "...where ya from?"